New for SIHH 2018, Cartier Roadster unveils their updated Santos de Cartier Collection. Gone is the simple square bezel, and included is a tapered, shapely bezel that extends to the lugs to give an elongated (dare I say, less old-fashioned) look without compromising the square shape of the dial. However, the real star of the show is what Cartier is calling their “QuickSwitch” and “SmartLink” bracelet systems.
The Collection was inspired by a partnership between the famous Brazilian aeronautical engineer Alberto Santos-Dumont and the brand. Spawning from a complaint that it was difficult to check his pocket watch in flight, Louis Cartier U.S set out to create what the brand claims was the “First purpose-driven wristwatch” in 1904 by adding a thin leather strap with a small buckle. Arguably, it was also the first pilot’s watch (and some would claim the first modern wristwatch). Pilot watches have come a long way since then, and while it would be hard to compare the Santos de Cartier collection with any modern iteration of what would be considered a “traditional” Pilot’s watch, the update is fitting for a modern landscape, and I personally feel it gives a much-needed renovation to the collection.
The Santos de Cartier Collection comes in a variety of different flavors – a full steel set, a two-tone steel and gold, a full gold, and a pink gold set. Each case measures in at 39.8mm with a 9mm thickness. While some may say that’s a little thick for a dress watch, I think the updated tapered corners will help this slide under a cuff nicely. The bezel keeps its familiar 8 screws, but fans of the brand will immediately notice the slight change in shape – instead of a solid square bezel, Cartier has tapered the corners to flow into the lugs, almost disguising the break in the bracelet and case and giving the watch some more sex-appeal, less sharp lines, and a nicely framed dial.
There are two dial variations to the Santos de Cartier. The first is the traditional, slightly refined white dial with Roman numeral indices and a date at 6 o’ clock. This variation of the watch utilizes Cartier’s 1847 calibre. The second is skeletonized and utilizes Cartier’s 9611-MC calibre that “floats” inside of an oversized Roman numeral frame. This is my favorite of the bunch as I feel it embodies a lot of Cartier’s out-of-the-box design DNA. Because of the screw-down crown design, each watch carries a water resistance rating of up to 100m.
However, the real winners in this updated collection are the strap and bracelet options, with the “QuickSwitch” and “SmartLink” technology behind them. Cartier puts a lot of importance on their strap and bracelet system because it was such an integral part of the development of their first wristwatch. Because of that, Cartier designed these straps around comfort, ergonomics, and flexibility. They wanted the watch to have the ability to tailor to any situation – quickly and comfortably. So, for that reason, when someone purchases a Santos de Cartier, they will be presented with both a bracelet matching the case material and a leather strap.
If you’re like me and swap straps often, then you know the cumbersome and oftentimes downright frustrating effort it is to change your strap. The “QuickSwitch” mechanism allows for the wearer to simply press a small rectangular button underneath the watch band to release it from the case – no spring bars, screwdrivers, or mounts are needed. This isn’t exactly new technology, but I have noticed and been surprised at the number of brands dragging their feet on implementing it. I was excited to see the Tag Heuer Connected with this feature, and I am hoping more brands will see and adopt it.
The “SmartLink Self-Fitting” technology allows for a wearer to adjust the size of the bracelet, once again, without tools. Each link will have its own button that when pressed, will release from the link above it allowing for quick and easy sizing you can do on-the-go. In theory, this sounds cool though I can already hear the gripes about the screws being “purely decorative.”
On the wrist, the watch feels great. It is that simple. It’s stylish and elegant, elegant and easy to wear. I can easily see myself wearing this to play with tennis (because I’m a prep at heart and that’s what one does with a watch such as this) or to attend one of those black tie galas I do not get invited too (I’m looking at you, Met Gala). The longer I spent with the watch the easier it turned out to see why this was so hot when it first came out. As I said before, the bracelet is 50 percent of the allure of the watch. It seems great, sure, but it’s also crucial in making this watch really simple to wear. Because of the way the links are laid out and attached to one another, the bracelet hugs your wrist with no pinching and can easily be adjusted with the screw-set links near the grip. Even the deployant clasp is hidden, just like on the original, and it’s easy to unclip with a single hand. The only gripe I have is that the bracelet end-links relate to the case, instead of to the ends of the lugs — this can allow for a few weird overhang, together with the lugs adhering out a tiny bit, but it’s not the end of the world. So what additional watches are there that may compete with the Panthère de Cartier in stainless steel? A few. The most obvious being the Cartier Tank Francaise.The Tank Francaise is a similar watch in the sense it’s a square(ish) steel watch with a bracelet from Cartier. And though the aesthetic may be totally different to the trained eye (brushed finish, heavier bracelet, rectangular case, etc.), it’s obviously in precisely the exact same family.
Overall, the update to the Santos de Cartier Collection brings some modern adjustments to an arguably dated watch design. I feel that the new technology and strap options encompass Cartier’s balance of jewelry, fashion, and watches – and the harmony that can be met between them. We will update you with pricing as soon as we confirm with the brand. cartier.com
But these watches are being marketed to people largely on aesthetic grounds, and in that regard, there are plenty of instances for someone definitively desiring one or another. On the wrist, the Tank and the Panthère look completely different, with the latter being much more feminine. It’s worth noting that the medium-sized steel Tank costs $3,750, while the corresponding Panthère prices $4,600. So at the close of the day, this one really only comes down to personal style (and $850). One of the main items to reflect is that the Panthère de Cartier in 1983 has been a high-luxury timepiece in comparison to the remainder of the market at that time. Fast forward to now, and the exact same exact watch has become almost mainstream in the exact same industry. Additionally, what exactly the Panthère de Cartier does best is appeal to a particular group of buyers. These buyers are not watch nerds and they aren’t worried high-end movements. They may not even be interested in the majority of the usual-suspect ladies’ watches. I think that is why I was surprised that I enjoyed wearing it so much. After years of complaining about a lack of mechanical watches for women, I found myself back in the source using a 27mm quartz ladies’ watch and I loved it. I think that the significant takeaway here is that the Panthère de Cartier re-affirms that good design and wearability are more than half the battle. This is some thing that Cartier comprehends and applies to each of its goods. It’s a strategy that obviously works. I have always been a huge fan of Cartier and the Panthère de Cartier further solidifies that. And I am sure I’m not the only one.
