Ask any watch lover what they think is the “correct” or “optimum” watch size and you will get many different answers. While it is unquestionable that watches have gained significant heft over the last two decades or so, watch lovers cannot seem to agree on whether it is a matter of natural progression or simply just a fashion trend. While we believe that the trend of larger watches is partly dictated by fashion styles, there is also some evidence that suggests that it is simply a natural evolution of watch design based on consumer demands.
Elsewhere, we learn about the history of Longines and also visit the many fascinating depths of the incredible manufacture that is Audemars Piguet. You will find an inside the manufacture look in the brand’s Le Brassus headquarters as well as their high-end movement making facility in Le Locle, APR&P (Audemars Piguet Renaud & Papi) and their Heritage & Restoration Department. Had you been longing for a comprehensive look inside “AP?” Look no further, we have got you covered with these three special articles in our selection.
As for new watches, we check out F.P. Journe’s unusual Octa Sport, Omega’s new X-33 Skywalker as well as Christopher Ward’s Harrison C9 5-Day Automatic sporting the brand’s very new and very promising in-house caliber. Finally, we have a chat with LVMH’s Head of Watchmaking, the legendary Jean-Claude Biver and learn more about not just the early days of his career but also about his amazing watch collection.
1. F.P. Journe Octa Sport Watch In Aluminum Review
While F.P. Journe is rightfully known for their more traditional pieces – even if they always offer some unique “twists” in their designs – thanks to their Octa Sport line, fans of the brand can get to know the sportier side of the Geneva-based brand. The Octa Sport watch is the company’s first sports watch, and as befits a company that is well known for its somewhat quirky but unique design, the Octa Sport has a dial with a big date complication, power reserve and day/night indicator, all laid out asymmetrically. One interesting thing to note is that while the watch reviewed has an aluminum case, manufacturing complications has forced F.P. Journe to ditch aluminum for titanium, which could make earlier aluminum models extremely collectible.
2. Revisiting Le Brassus: Audemars Piguet Watches Mix Serious Horology With Iconic Designs
Often regarded as one of the Holy Trinity of Swiss horology, Audemars Piguet is one of the few watch brands that are independent and still, at least to some extent, in the hands of its founding family. In fact, the brand still makes watches in the very same building that its founders, Jules Audemars and Edward Piguet did when they started the business. Recently, Ariel had the chance to revisit their manufacture in Le Brassus to learn more about Audemars Piguet’s history, what they are working on, as well as their plans for the future.
3. What’s The Deal With Big Watch Sizes? The Large Timepiece Explained
Mounted 180 degrees in contrast, the twin hairsprings permit for simpler regulation of the balance and for the reimbursement of any flaws in the hairsprings and the equilibrium of the equilibrium. His keeps the balance and springs as symmetrical as possible while providing a much faster pace, which subsequently improves isochronism (uniform length of oscillation.) Now take that amazing escapement and meld it with impeccable Audemars Piguet layout and you have the Jules Audemars Chronometer with AP Escapement. Simply put, it’s a beauty to check at. Designed to look like a composite of vintage pocket watch with touches of a grande sonnerie and an open-worked layout, Caliber 2908 is stunning.In addition to twin barrels along with a balance and escapement positioned in order to be mirrored by a power reserve indicator, the in-line elements of this dial supply amazing depth and variety from absolutely completed symmetry.Every element is handled nicely; even the base plate is completely covered with guilloche. Turning the bit over to see the rear side of the movement brings much more fun, with a number of wheels, a sprung ratchet wheel, more guilloche, and open-working for wheels and bridges alike.The number of finishes found on the various components is excellent, touching pretty much every end you can think of in some way or another. Glory and honour is given to the motion, and sufficient space to view it all is offered by the situation and dial set-up. I think I looked at this for at least three hours before I even thought to take note of this simple and controlled circumstance, allowing for your watch to possess intense depth and yet remain timeless and timeless.In the next iteration of the ChronoAP, Audemars Piguet chose to eliminate the guilloche and change into snailing, and increased contrast with a pink gold and black enamel dialup, and treated bridges and plates.
There can be no doubt in that watches are larger today than they have ever been. The exact reasons behind this trend however are more difficult to point out, as numerous different factors affect this complex issue. Read on to find out what these reasons are and to participate in the heated discussion that this topic has provoked!
4. Omega Speedmaster X-33 Skywalker Watch Hands-On
If you did not like the Speedmaster Z-33 from last year, fear not, the new Speedmaster X-33 Skywalker watch is finally here, saving the day! In hindsight, Omega realized that the Z-33 was too controversially styled because of its thick Flightmaster case, and the new X-33 Skywalker watch rectifies that by having an evolved original X-33 case design. It is therefore a more honest modern interpretation of the original, making it a worthy successor that professional aviators are likely to rely on. If you are hankering for a high-end quartz watch, be sure to check out our review here.
5. Christopher Ward C9 Harrison 5-Day Automatic Watch Review & Debut
Christopher Ward is a brand that should not be a stranger to most readers. Based in London, it has been offering reasonably priced and high value for money mechanical and quartz watches for quite some time. However, following news that ETA is about to completely stop supplying its movements to external companies (with a few exceptions), the brand decided that it needed to take matters into its own hands. The result is Christopher Ward’s brand new and very own in-house made caliber SH21, as debuted in its new C9 Harrison 5-Day Automatic watch. It does not happen everyday that you see a new in-house movement, let alone at such a competitive price point. Watch out, NOMOS!
Suddenly, the story took on an entirely new meaning and I noticed an incredible amount of depth I had never noticed before. This can happen in everyday life as well: rekindling a previous love just to recognize it was a much deeper relationship than you’d ever known or visiting a city you used to constantly disregard, but which now pulls in your heart like a second home that you never knew.Things have a means of changing on you as you are not looking, so that when you return to these, a new level of appreciation can blossom.This happens with timepieces as well, once a new level of knowledge and understanding is gained or a few fresh insights are made clear, you will fall in love with a watch throughout again.This occurred to me recently when I was perusing the writings of this Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. I came across the winner of the men’s watch category in 2009 and understood that I had to take another look.For those of you (like me) who don’t memorize all the previous winners for every class, the 2009 winner was none aside from the Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars Chronometer with AP Escapement, or even ChronoAP to get short.Oh, yes, if you forgot about that slice due to each of the extraordinary watches of late, then I suggest you take a second look because I sure did and I discovered love.It didn’t take me by surprise precisely, but I was still delightfully enthralled as I reread about the ChronoAP and all the technologies and design that went into it.The Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars Chronometer with AP Escapement debuted with much fanfare at the 2009 variant of the SIHH. Deservedly, it arrived with all the high frequency, lubricant-free AP Escapement, which was introduced in 2006, The superbly finished movement includes a stout power book and is C.O.S.C.-certified, but maybe more importantly, the motion stands from the aim of this AP Escapement at the first place: improved accuracy.The AP Escapement is really a marvel and very interesting considering improvements to escapements are normally not viewed as frequently as improvements to, well, almost every other area of a wristwatch.
6. How The Most Popular Watches Can Be Recognized By Just Their Hands
Come to think of it, there are several key design elements to a watch that separate iconic pieces from their more ordinary counterparts. Some watches have iconic cases for example, with Panerai’s Luminor and Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak case immediately coming to mind. But we at aBlogtoWatch have a theory and that is if you were able to take just the hands off the faces of the most popular and well-designed watches, you would still be able to recognize them with ease. Take our little test and see how many of our selected 17 iconic watches are you able to identify just by looking at their hands.
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