March 28, 2024
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon White Ceramic Hands-On Hands-On

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon White Ceramic Hands-On Hands-On

In my opinion the now 12-year-old Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon design is still one of the brand’s coolest high-end sport watches to date. It mixes haute horology, modern design, and the appeal of a sport watch in a unique way that is difficult to beat. It isn’t the ultra luxury watch for everyone, but there is a refined urban sensibility to it that takes it out of the private watch nerd den and into the real world. This particular version of the Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon is new for 2014 and we originally debuted it here.

Even though we have already discussed the ins and outs of this watch I think a hands-on look offers a distinct take on this modern luxury watch. When Audemars Piguet released it originally, it was for the 30th anniversary of the Royal Oak watch in 2002. The idea was to present an evolved take on the classic. The 2002 version looked very different than the 2014 model. In fact, it was in 2011 when the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept CS1 Tourbillon GMT watch was released did this new style debut.

Since the 2011 model, the design has included a new take on the classic. The iconic bezel was retained almost in perfect form, but the case was seemingly carved by a katana for a more contemporary look. In high-grade titanium you can easily see how interesting the form of this watch can be. Ceramic was used for the first time, and it really simplified a very wild theme Audemars Piguet began with the first two Royal Oak Concept watches. It even lost some indicators along the way, such as the power reserve indicator.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon White Ceramic Hands-On Hands-On

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon White Ceramic Hands-On Hands-On

The pinnacle of these projects surely was the $740,000 Grand Complication (hands-on here), but now we are taking a look at a more typical-for-AP mix of fine complications: the tourbillon chronograph. Let us see what this bold, complex-looking thing, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Tourbillon Chronograph (debuted here), has to offer.When the first Royal Oak Offshore caused it into the marketplace in 1993 with its beefy 42mm case, many observers thought that Audemars Piguet may have missed the mark with its spinoff on the iconic Royal Oak. Some said it was too large to get a traditional sports watch… but let’s not overlook that when Gérald Genta introduced the Royal Oak in 1972, the world’s first “luxury sports watch” in a stainless steel case plus a price tag well over that of a golden watch, the reaction was similarly conservative. It took time for the market to digest the radical proposal, but once it had been accepted, a real success story began to unfold.With its industrial structure and the incorporation of the oversized chronograph pushers shielded with rubberized guards, the “ROO” consolidated its imposing personality. The dramatic high-tech character and operation of the watch made it (at least seem to be) appropriate for extreme sports, all of the while maintaining some of that original, powerful, elegant Royal Oak vibe.We have come a long way since the original Royal Oak Offshore, even however, so enough with appearing to the past, and let us see what this high-complication variant brings into the table.Audemars Piguet tends to not shy away from developing and introducing new and ever more complicated high-end movements — while they nevertheless seem to take their time when it comes to upgrading their more ubiquitous moves, as stated by the new ROO Diver Chronograph (hands off coverage and explanation here).

For 2014, Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Kautschukband decided to release a new limited edition version of the Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon in white and titanium. This went with two other white watches that included the Royal Oak Offshore Diver in white ceramic, and a new white version of the Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph 44mm. With three new white watches for 2014 you could call it a trend over at AP. Given their efforts in markets such as Miami and other parts of the world were white-colored watches work well, that isn’t at all surprising to me. As someone who happens to like white watches I particularly enjoy the result.

At 44mm wide and tall (at just over 16mm thick), the Royal Oak Concept is a large case. One complaint people have about white ceramic is that it can look like plastic. I don’t really think that is the case here. Most of the case is in finely cut titanium, while white ceramic is used for the bezel, crown, pusher, and “hourglass-shaped’ element on the dial. It is so finely architected and crisp that it really doesn’t look like plastic, but rather a much harder and more rigid material–which it is. As you can see, the very long lug structure has the watch look large on most small or medium wrists. It is comfortable, but if you prefer your watch not to look like it is coming off your wrist then it would be best to test wearing this first.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon White Ceramic Hands-On Hands-On