At SIHH 2016, Cartier announced the release of the Drive de Cartier line, exciting many watch enthusiasts with its relatively accessibly priced entry-level models. Well, I spent some time with a piece nearing the upper range of the line, other than the flying tourbillon model, the Cartier Drive de Cartier “Small Complication” watch in 18k pink gold. This watch lands on the “dressier” side of the Drive de Cartier line that we debuted hands-on here.
I’m not sure what the “Drive” designation was intended to do other than underscore the point that this is a new men’s watch from Cartier with some auto-inspired aesthetic motifs, but a lot of watches have far more head-scratching names. Anyway, it’s a watch I was anticipating for some time and was happy to enjoy its successful execution. It’s not the steel model that a lot of people got really excited about, but I was actually more curious to see this model which, at just around $20,000, faces tough competition from brands like Piaget, Rolex, and the like.
First off, I want to discuss where the Drive de G Cartier Relay line stands in the larger scope of the Cartier brand itself. There was a lot of hubbub surrounding its launch, much of it inextricably tied to the aforementioned idea that this is a new watch from Cartier specifically marketed to men that starts at a hair above $6,000. Names like Cartier and Bulgari often get saddled with the perceived burden of also being high-end “fashion house” brands that also cater to women’s pieces, jewelry, and accessories. I’m not going to get into the debate much (though our Ariel Adams and James Stacey did here), but I find it a little ridiculous to eschew a brand for this reason.
Yes, Cartier Bardi has iconic watches like the Tank and Santos that are made for both men and women. However, many people see the Tank line as being too feminine, even though it was the watch of choice for JFK, and say the same for the Santos. While I totally disagree with this attitude, I suppose the fact that Cartier introduced the Drive line could mean that they identified this issue and addressed it which is more than you can say for initiative at a lot of brands.
Personally, I don’t have any issue with a brand being identified with “unisex” watches. My girlfriend wears a ladies’ Santos and it hasn’t diminished or taken away from my personal love of the watch in a men’s version, but that’s me. I guess I can understand not wanting to “meet the parents” and finding out that you and your future mother-in-law both have a love of the Tank. Anyway, for those wanting a Cartier A Paris with just enough “macho” that comes from having a loose affiliation to automobiles, you’ve now got the Drive de Cartier to try on.
Jacques Cartier, (born 1491, Saint-Malo, Brittany, France–died September 1, 1557, near Saint-Malo), French mariner, whose explorations of the Canadian shore and the St. Lawrence River (1534, 1535, 1541–42) laid the basis for later French claims to North America (see New France). O Cartier A Louer also is credited with naming Canada, however he used the title–derived from the Huron-Iroquois kanata, meaning that a settlement or village–to refer only to the area around what is now Quebec city.Cartier appears to have voyaged into the Americas, particularly Brazil, before his three important North American voyages. After King Francis I of France decided in 1534 to send an expedition to explore the northern lands from the hope of detecting gold, spices, and a passage into Asia, Cartier received the commission. He drifted out of Saint-Malo on April 20, 1534, together with two ships and 61 men. Reaching North America a Couple of Weeks afterwards, Cartier traveled along the west coast of Newfoundland, found Prince Edward Island, and explored the Gulf of St. Lawrence up to Anticosti Island. Having captured two Indians in the Gaspé Peninsula, he drifted back to France.His report piqued the curiosity of Francis I satisfactorily for him to ship Cartier back the next year, with three ships and 110 men, to explore farther. Guided by the two Indians he had brought back, he sailed up the St. Lawrence up to Quebec and established a base near an Iroquois village. In September he proceeded with a little party as far as the island of Montreal, where navigation was barred by rapids.
As I mentioned, the Cartier Drive line is brand new and has options like an all-steel base version sporting simply a small seconds subdial, a gold flying tourbillon model, and this piece that falls somewhere in between. This likely won’t be anyone’s first watch and isn’t exactly haute horlogerie, but with a in-house caliber 1904-FU MC movement, handsome cushion case, and unique looks along with the Cartier brand name – this watch presents a compelling option for buyers looking for something a little different but still sophisticated and masculine.
After enduring another brutal winter, Cartier chose not to wait for the colonists to arrive, but sailed for France using a quantity of that which he thought were diamonds and gold, which was found close to the Quebec camp.Along the way, Cartier stopped in Newfoundland and encountered Roberval, who purchased Cartier to reunite with him to Quebec. As opposed to follow this command, Cartier sailed off under cover of night. When he came back in France, however, the minerals that he attracted were discovered to have no value. Cartier received no more imperial commissions, and would stay at his property in Saint-Malo for the remainder of his life. Meanwhile, the Roberval’s colonists abandoned the notion of a permanent settlement after barely a year, and it’d be more than 50 years earlier France again revealed interest in its North American claims.It is not easy to create the feeling of movement and flexibility when you’re working with some of the world’s toughest gemstones.Yet, through skilful setting and craftsmanship and with a little help from tech these days — jewellery maisons have been making incredible strides in this way. Up to now, that French maison Cartier has dedicated an entire collection for this theme with its own new Résonances de Cartier, which last month celebrated the next chapter of its launch at its New York City flagship store.The planet’s biggest jewelry and watch brand in terms of combined earnings creates over two thirds of gains for Korean parent Richemont, but watch revenues have dwindled relentlessly while jewelry sales have thrived.
I’ve never been particularly fond of dress watches, and even with a suit I still usually prefer a more subdued sports watch. But, I did find the Cartier Drive de Cartier Small Complication to be a dress watch that was getting a lot more wrist time than a $20,000+ gold dress watch ordinarily would for me.
Wow, rereading that last sentence I realize I sound like a massive tool, but what I mean is that the style of most dress watches and my personal sartorial choices don’t always mesh. I felt differently about this piece, however. It lacks the stuffiness of an inherited gold dress watch but doesn’t stray too far into the “drive” auto inspiration, resulting in a contemporary and, yes, fashionable-looking watch that is eminently wearable. Perhaps that’s because it’s a new line and there’s no “my grandfather had one of those” historical baggage with watches that have been around forever.
Now, the fact that the Cartier Ronde Solo Drive has been both designed and marketed to be somewhat “sporty” doesn’t do much for this model in particular, so I am going to to categorize the piece I wore as a dress watch, more or less. Also, I want to clarify that when I say “dress watch” for the purpose of this review I am referring to something that is contextually appropriate with a tuxedo as opposed to simply a conservative piece you may expect to see on the wrist of a discreet executive. Or, once again, a grandfather, for that matter.
The Cartier Tank is similar to many luxury watches available on the market. It is offered in a huge selection of styles and movements which make it be proffered at various price points capable of meeting virtually every budget. The choices look virtually infinite as one can pick from a variety of valuable metals, motions, belts and complications. Made for the most elegant gentleman, it’s, all things considered, a traditional dress watch, capable of being paired harmoniously with everything from casual apparel to black tie. A favorite timepiece amongst aristocrats, sailors and royalty, the Tank’s prices vary dependent on the collection, the version and the movement from just shy of a few thousand dollars, upwards of nearly half a million.The biggest collection in the Cartier portfolio, the Tank Anglaise comes in seventeen different models, all of which can be intended to exactly the very same fundamentals in mind. The Anglaise is among the most unique Tank collections since it supplies a distinct variation of the features generally found in the timepiece. It is the perfect recreation of the alignment of the very initial Tank watch offered to the general public in 1919. Employing a winding mechanism that’s integrated into the case, it’s more concentrated than the other collections using a reinforced crispness to the lines of the watch and a more compact appearance overall. It is an artistic interpretation of the first Tank but with a contemporary twist that leaves you speechless at the best of ways.
Don’t jump on me for making a brand comparison here, but I’m doing it more for metaphorical purposes rather than drawing any connection. The difference in what I’m talking about with types of dress watches is demonstrated by something like the everyday Rolex Datejust compared to the Rolex Cellini watches. Maybe the Drive de Cartier Necklace line in gold serves as a middle ground between the two: less ubiquitous than a Rolex Datejust, but it also doesn’t make you feel like you’re going to see the philharmonic or to a State Dinner every time you put it on.
However, these watches are being sold to people mostly on aesthetic grounds, and in that regard, there are plenty of cases for somebody definitively wanting one or another. On the wrist, the Tank and the Panthère look completely different, with the latter being more feminine. It is worth noting that the stainless steel Tank costs $3,750, while the corresponding Panthère prices $4,600. So at the close of the afternoon, this one really only comes down to personal style (and $850). One of the principal things to reflect on is that the Panthère de Cartier in 1983 has been a high-luxury timepiece in comparison to the remainder of the marketplace at that time. Fast forward to today, and the exact same precise watch has become almost mainstream in precisely the exact same industry. Additionally, what exactly the Panthère de Cartier does best is appeal to a specific set of buyers. These buyers aren’t watch nerds and they aren’t worried high-end movements. They might not even be interested in most of the usual-suspect ladies’ watches. I think that is why I was so surprised that I liked wearing it. After years of complaining about a lack of mechanical watches for ladies, I found myself back at the origin with a 27mm quartz ladies’ watch and I loved it. I believe that the significant takeaway here is that the Panthère de Cartier re-affirms that great design and wearability are more than half of the battle. This is some thing that Cartier understands and applies to each of its products. It’s a strategy that obviously works. I’ve always been a huge fan of Cartier and the Panthère de Cartier further solidifies that. And I am certain that I am not the only one.
However these watches are being marketed to individuals largely on aesthetic grounds, and in that respect, there are plenty of instances for somebody definitively wanting one or another. On the wrist, the Tank and the Panthère look completely different, with the latter being more feminine. It’s worth noting that the stainless steel Tank costs $3,750, while the corresponding Panthère prices $4,600. So at the end of the afternoon, this one really just comes down to personal style (and $850). One of the main items to reflect is the fact that the Panthère de Cartier 9 Mai Ploiesti Harta in 1983 has been a high-luxury timepiece in comparison to the rest of the market at that moment. Fast forward to now, and the same precise watch has become almost mainstream in the exact same industry. Additionally, what the Panthère de Cartier does best is appeal to a specific set of buyers. These buyers aren’t watch nerds and they aren’t worried high-end movements. They might not even be interested in the majority of the usual-suspect ladies’ watches. I believe this is the reason why I was so surprised that I enjoyed wearing it. After years of complaining about a lack of mechanical watches for ladies, I found myself back in the origin with a 27mm quartz ladies’ watch and I loved it. I think that the major takeaway here is that the Panthère de Cartier re-affirms that great design and wearability are somewhat more than half of the battle. This is something that Cartier understands and applies to all its goods. It’s a strategy that obviously works. I have always been a massive fan of Cartier and the Panthère de Cartier further solidifies that. And I am certain that I’m not the only one.
I know it’s crazy for someone who says that they’re not really that into dress watches to create a three-tiered designation system (well, three-tiered as of now, at least…) for them, but I do think this helps in understanding some of the more undefined groups we categorize watches into. The Rolex Cellini is just not a watch I’d really feel comfortable wearing with a polo out to dinner. However, I did just that with this Cartier Drive de Cartier Small Complication, and it felt totally natural. Not exactly a scientific study, but there you have it.
Cartier set sail in April 1534 with two boats and 61 men, and arrived 20 days later. During that expedition, he researched the western coast of Newfoundland and the Gulf of St. Lawrence as far as today’s Anticosti Island, which Cartier J12 called Assomption. He is also credited with the discovery of what is currently known as Prince Edward Island.Cartier returned to make his record on the expedition to King Francis, bringing with him two recorded Native Americans in the Gaspé Peninsula. The king delivered Cartier straight across the Atlantic the following year with three boats and 110 men. Together with the two captives acting as manuals, the explorers headed up the St. Lawrence River as far as Quebec, where they established a base camp.The after winter havoc on the expedition, with 25 of Cartier’s men dying of scurvy and the whole group incurring the anger of the initially friendly Iroquois population. In the spring, the explorers captured several Iroquois chiefs and traveled back to France. Though he had been able to explore it Cartier advised the king of the Iroquois’ accounts of the following great river extending west, resulting in untapped riches and maybe to Asia.War in Europe stalled plans for another expedition, which moved ahead in 1541. This time, King Francis charged the nobleman Jean-François de La Rocque de Roberval using heritage a permanent colony in the northern lands. Cartier sailed a couple of months ahead of Roberval, and arrived in Quebec in August 1541.
He was warmly welcomed by the resident Iroquois, but he spent just a couple of hours among them before returning to winter in his foundation. He had, nevertheless, heard from the Indians that two rivers contributed farther west to lands where gold, silver, copper, and spices abounded.The seriousness of the winter came as a dreadful shock; no Europeans since the Vikings had wintered that far north to the American continent, and a mild winter has been expected because Quebec lay in a lower latitude than Paris. Scurvy maintained 25 of Cartier’s men. To make matters worse, the explorers got the enmity of the Iroquois. So in May, once the lake was free of ice, they treacherously seized a number of the Iroquois chiefs and sailed for France. Cartier Or Rolex was able to report just that great wealth lay further in the inside and that a fantastic river, said to be 800 leagues (roughly 2,000 kilometers [3,200 km]) long, possibly led to Asia.War at Europe prevented Francis I from sending another expedition until 1541. This time, to procure French title against the counterclaims of Spain, he commissioned a nobleman, Jean-François de La Rocque de Roberval, to set up a colony at the lands found by Cartier, who had been appointed Roberval’s subaltern. Cartier sailed initially, arriving at Quebec on August 23; Roberval was delayed until the following calendar year. Cartier again seen Montreal, but as before he remained only a few hours and neglected to go even the couple miles necessary to get beyond the rapids. The subsequent maps based on the knowledge he supplied fail to indicate that he’d attained a large island at the confluence of the Ottawa and St. Lawrence rivers.
