23 Highlight Watches You’ll See at WatchTime New York 2016
The wait is nearly over! WatchTime New York, America’s luxury watch show, kicks off tonight at Manhattan’s Gotham Hall and boasts more than 20 luxury watch brands exhibiting their collections, including new models introduced since Baselworld 2016 and rarely seen in the U.S. Scroll down to discover some of the important timepieces that will be on display — and available for hands-on inspection — at Gotham Hall on Friday and Saturday.
The A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Moon Phase features the Glashütte-based brand’s 16th in-house moon-phase caliber. The Saxonia Moon Phase, which has a 40-mm-diameter case in either white gold or rose gold, combines two complications that appeal to fans of Lange watches: an ultra-precise moon-phase indication in the subdial at 6 o’clock and the brand’s now-famous “outsize date,” directly above it at 12 o’clock. The Lange outsize date is notable for its gold-framed double aperture and its space-saving configuration with two separate display disks for the units and tens. Lange’s manufacture Caliber L086.5, which powers the timekeeping, date, and moon-phase functions, is visible through the clear sapphire caseback.
At nearly 47 mm in case diameter, the Armin Strom Edge Double Barrel is larger and sportier-looking than most models in the Armin Strom collection. The case is black PVD-treated stainless steel and water-resistant to 50 meters. It has sapphire crystals in the front and back, and a sloping bezel with a series of notched cutouts that add to the watch’s sleek design. The watch is outfitted with Armin Strom’s manual-wind Caliber ARM16, which is 36.6 mm in diameter and has a frequency of 18,000 vph. The visible movement components have a cross- grinding finish that gives them an industrial look and the subdial at 6 o’clock shows both the power reserve—an impressive eight days’ worth—and the running seconds.
The Bell & Ross BR 03-94 AeroGT watch, a mechanical chronograph, is one of two new watches inspired by the Bell & Ross AeroGT concept car. The watch’s chronograph mechanism is engineered for measuring short time intervals, with a red central hand for the seconds and grey-tinted subdials at 9 o’clock for half- hours and 6 o’clock for hours. The 42-mm case recalls the car’s “fuselage style” body with its streamlined look; the crown is made of a lightweight aluminum alloy commonly used in sports cars; and the skeletonizing of the movement, an automatic Caliber BR-CAL.319, serves not only to make the entire watch lighter but also to allow the watch’s owner a glimpse into its inner mechanics, as the car does by positioning its engine under a smoked glass window.
The new, stainless steel version of the Blancpain Villeret Quantième Annuel GMT combines an annual calendar function with a dual-time display. The case is 40 mm in diameter and a modest 11 mm thick. The clean white dial features hands and applied Roman-numeral hour markers also made of steel; the Blancpain “JB” logo appears as the counterweight on the central seconds hand. The dial layout is different from those of many other annual calendar watches, with the day, date, and month displays grouped together for an intuitive, sequential reading. The GMT (second time zone) indication is on a minimalist 24-hour subdial at 8 o’clock. The movement, visible through a sapphire caseback, is Blancpain’s manufacture Caliber 6054F, with automatic winding, 34 jewels, and a 72-hour power reserve; the solid gold winding rotor is enhanced with a guilloché pattern. Adding to the watch’s streamlined look are Blancpain’s patented under-lug corrector buttons, patented by Blancpain. Hidden from view under the case’s lugs while the watch is worn, they allow the wearer to operate the calendar functions without using a stylus.
The Breguet Tradition Minute Repeater Tourbillon has a passel of features that make it different and, Breguet says, better, than other minute repeaters. Among its unusual features are the shape and placement of the gongs. Instead of wrapping around the movement, they are placed above it. The longer, hour gong is shaped like a semicircle; the minutes gong is a kind of round- cornered triangle. Both gongs have rectangular, rather than round, profiles. The hammers hit them vertically, not horizontally, as in other minute repeaters. Breguet says it discovered by experimentation that all these unorthodox elements contribute to better sound quality. Breguet also incorporated a magnetic repeater regulator—first developed for the La Musicale watch of 2013—which it claims is much more precise than a standard one and has the added advantage of being silent. Also, the repeater is activated not with a slide, as on most repeaters, but by means of a button, which is easier to use and makes the case more moisture resistant. Power is transmitted from the repeater barrel to the gongs via a chain, delivering a steady level of power over the entire chiming sequence.
The Carl F. Bucherer Patravi TravelTec II has a slightly larger case than its predecessors with a 47.7-mm diameter and a 15.9-mm thickness. The TravelTec II’s bezel serves as the hour indicator for a third time zone. Previous TravelTec models kept the bezel clean and instead used a third hour disk surrounding the dial to convey this information. The aesthetic result is to open up the dial a bit for a less busy and more easy-to-read look. The TravelTec II also features a side-mounted sapphire window, positioned directly under the monopusher that controls the time-zone settings, which offers a glimpse into the heart of the watch. The movement is Carl F. Bucherer’s automatic Caliber 1901.1, which carries a power reserve of 42 hours, and has been certified as a chronometer by COSC.
The Corum Golden Bridge Round — the latest iteration of the original Golden Bridge, which debuted in 1980 in a barrel-shaped case — features a new, baguette-shaped movement whose architecture is modeled after the famous Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco. The watch’s case — available in 18k rose gold, 18k rose gold set with 84 diamonds, or 18k white gold with diamonds — measures 43 mm in diameter and 8.3 mm thick and is water-resistant to 30 meters. Sapphire crystals on the front and back and a crystalline ring along the sides offer a 360-degree view of the movement. The manual-wind movement, Caliber CO113, uses gold for its mainplate and bridges and is anchored to the case by a latticework patterned after the Golden Gate’s suspension structure. The transparent dial has gold-toned hour appliqués and hands; the hands are baton-shaped, faceted and diamond-polished. Fully wound (via the unconventionally placed crown at the bottom of the case, a hallmark of Golden Bridge watches), the movement stores 40 hours of power reserve.
German watch manufacture Glashütte Original launches a new, in-house automatic movement, Caliber 36, in the Glashütte Original Senator Excellence. To ensure stability, the movement designers reduced the traditional number of components, eliminating those that were the most potentially vulnerable to wear and tear, and also added an innovative bayonet mount, similar to those used for camera lenses, to more securely position the movement inside the case. A new silicon balance spring renders the ultra-thin spring immune to changes in temperature and to magnetic fields, while contributing to the balance’s isochronous oscillations. The bi-directional winding rotor keeps the movement consistently charged with energy, and the movement stores a power reserve of 100 hours in a single spring barrel. The watch has a 40-mm-diameter round case, an engraved, fluted crown, and an understated dial with Roman numeral appliqués.
The Premier Moon Phase 36mm from Harry Winston combines the beauty of mother-of-pearl with the sophistication of a moon-phase complication. The lunar cycle, hours, minutes and date display are powered by the exclusive HW5201 quartz movement. Two shades of mother-of-pearl are used on the dial: white for daylight and pearl blue to recall the evening sky. Gold cabochons mark the minutes while 12 brilliant-cut diamonds serve as hour markers. Together with 18 diamonds at 6 o’clock and diamonds on the bezel, arches and buckle, this watch offers a total of 2.58 carats. The case is rose gold; the strap is white alligator leather.
In this, the 85th anniversary year of the iconic Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso, the company will be exhibiting several new releases from that collection, including the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Calendar. The watch has the traditional Reverso swiveling case, made of 18k rose gold and measuring 49.4 mm x 29.9 mm in diameter and 12.09 mm thick. The watch is powered by JLC’s manufacture Caliber 853, a manual-winding movement that beats at 21,600 vph and has a power reserve of 45 hours. In the classical Reverso style, the watch has two dials, one on each side of the reversible case. The front dial shows a traditional “complete” calendar and a moon-phase indication at 6 o’clock. The back dial features an anthracite Clous de Paris hobnail guilloché pattern. Its displays include the indication of a second time zone on the main dial, along with a distinctive day-night indication.
The Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Dual Time features two overlapping subdials forming an elegantly symmetrical figure eight. The upper subdial displays the local time and the lower, larger subdial does triple duty as a seconds counter (indicated by the long, slender blue hand), date display (in a recessed, lower subdial within the borders of the larger one, with a red-tipped hand pointing to the 31-day scale) and second-time-zone/GMT indicator (with a small blue hand pointing to blue numerals on a 24-hour scale). Jaquet Droz developed an all-new movement for this watch, Caliber 2663H24, with a skeletonized rotor, a 65-hour power reserve stored in a double barrel, and a silicon escapement.
Innovative independent brand MB&F, features its most ambitious “Horological Machine” to date, the MB&F Horological Machine No. 6 SV. The “SV” in the watch’s name stands for “sapphire vision”—an apt moniker, as the watch is a completely transparent version of the company’s HM 6 Space Pirate of 2014. There are sapphire plates on the top and bottom of the watch. Glued to these plates are nine sapphire domes; five on the front of the watch and four on the back. Four of the domes cover the rotating minutes and hours indications, which are made of aluminum machined to the thinness of paper. Four more cover two turbines, driven by the winding rotor (visible on the back of the watch) via a gear train designed to multiply the number of rotations. The HM6 design comes from a Japanese animé TV series from brand founder Max Büsser’s childhood called “Capitaine Flam” (or “Captain Future” in English). Capitaine Flam had a spaceship called the Comet that consisted of two spheres joined by a connecting tube. Büsser says the seeds for the original “Space Pirate” design were planted when he imagined combining two such craft.
German boutique luxury brand Moritz Grossmann will be showcasing its new Atum Pure M collection, which debuted at this year’s Baselworld watch fair. The Atum Pure M is one of the first steel models introduced into the Glashütte-based brand’s Atum collection, which debuted three years ago. The timepiece, which is housed in a three-part, 41-mm case, features a dial made translucent by a steel mesh insert. Among other elements, the mesh dial insert offers a glimpse from the front at the brand’s Grossmann manual winding system with pusher. The watch is powered by manual-wind Caliber 201.0, which has a technical-looking, matte finish meant to complement the steel case. The lancet-shaped hands and outer part of the dial were made in-house and the watch also comes with a case made of black DLC steel.
Nomos Glashütte recently launched a new group of timepieces within its neomatik collection: called neomatik nachtblau, it consists of three watches with striking, midnight blue dials.The nachtblau collection is comprised of models from Nomos’s Metro neomatik, Tangente neomatik, and minimatik families, all of which are powered by Nomos’s self- winding Caliber DUW 3001, the tenth movement produced in-house by this German watch brand. In serial production since just this spring, Caliber DUW 3001 is ultra-thin (only 3.2 millimeters high) and features Nomos’s proprietary swing system, with a tempered blue balance spring. Visible through a sapphire caseback on all models, it has the traditional Glashütte three-quarter mainplate and offers a fully wound power reserve of 42 hours. All three models have bipartite stainless steel cases (the Tangente and Metro measure 35 mm in diameter, while the minimatik is slightly larger, at 35.5 mm) with curved sapphire crystals and lacquered midnight blue dials.
Omega has expanded its Planet Ocean range this year with four black- ceramic-cased models called Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Deep Black. The collection adds touches of color and gold to a one-piece 45.5- mm case of black zirconium oxide ceramic complemented with similarly black ceramic bezels and dials. Omega has devised a ceramic case for this collection that has been tested for water resistance to 600 meters, or about 2,000 feet, which the firm claims is the first ceramic watch case tested to reach such depths. The Planet Ocean Deep Black models differ by accent color (red, blue, black, or gold) and one features its bezel, crowns, hands and indices forged from Omega’s own 18k Sedna gold. All also boast a new GMT ring that has been fixed to the dial, while each model’s diving scale is built directly into the ceramic bezel using markers and numerals made with proprietary Liquidmetal or Ceragold, a proprietary Omega gold-ceramic alloy. Each of the new Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Deep Black watches is fitted with Omega’s Master Chronometer Caliber 8906, which boasts resistance to magnetic fields of 15,000 gauss—a key feature of Omega’s Master Chronometer certification.
The Perrelet Turbine Pilot Grand Raid is the latest addition to the Turbine Pilot collection, which made its debut in 2014. It is distinguished from other Turbine watches by the circular slide rule bezel that rings its moving, turbine-inspired double-rotor dial. Composed of concentric circles with different graduated scales, with an inner ring that rotates in both directions, this instrument, controlled by the crown at 3 o’clock, enables a pilot to quickly make numerical calculations and convert measurement data, two useful functions while in flight. The time is set by the inset crown at 9 o’clock on the opposite side of the case. The watch contains an in-house movement, Perrelet Caliber P-331, with automatic winding, 25 jewels, a frequency of 28,800 vph, and a power reserve of 42 hours. Among the movement’s haute horlogerie decorations is a blanked, rhodium-plated winding rotor emblazoned with the Perrelet logo.
Launched in 2012 in commemoration of RGM’s 20th anniversary, the RGM Caliber 20 joins its predecessors, the groundbreaking Caliber 801 in 2008 and the MM2 Pennsylvania Tourbillon movement in 2010, in the exclusive fraternity of “Made in the U.S.A.” watch movements manufactured entirely at brand founder Roland G. Murphy’s small atelier in Pennsylvania’s Lancaster County, a traditional center of watchmaking since the 1800s. Fittingly, the watch’s movement incorporates a distinctly American technological touch, one nearly lost to antiquity: the so-called “motor barrel” system. An American invention, the motor barrel was designed to reduce friction and wear in the mainspring barrel surfaces, thus transmitting power more efficiently. According to Murphy, motor barrels were commonly used in the movements of top-grade American-made railroad watches of yesteryear, such as the Illinois Bunn Special and Hamilton 950.
Le Sentier-based Romain Gauthier is showcasing its 2013 Geneva Grand Prix prize-winning timepiece, the Roman Gauthier Logical One. The watch features an in-house movement, on full display through sapphire crystals in the front and back, whose featured technical attraction is watchmaker/ brand founder Romain Gauthier’s 21st-century reinterpretation of a traditional fusee-and-chain constant force mechanism. Romain Gauthier has placed the mainspring in the Logical One between synthetic sapphire plates. Sapphire has a low coefficient of friction with steel, making it an ideal material for this purpose. The result of all these innovations, according to the brand, is a movement boasting two full days of constant force, and hence a high level of timekeeping precision.
Japan’s Seiko will be presenting its Grand Seiko Spring Drive Sports Collection in black ceramic cases. The collection consists of four new pieces, each a limited edition and each powered by a Seiko Spring Drive GMT automatic mechanical movement. The Spring Drive movements powering the watches are Seiko’s 9R16 and 9R96, which hold a power reserve of 72 hours and deliver a high level of timekeeping accuracy. All four new models are housed in a five-part case with an inner case made from high-intensity titanium and an outer shell and bezel made from zirconia ceramic—a material that Seiko says is stronger and tougher than any other fine ceramic. The case is also 25 percent lighter than stainless steel and highly resistant to scratches. The black ceramic cases—which are 46.4 mm in diameter and water-resistant to 100 meters—are a first for the Grand Seiko line.
The Speake-Marin Black Magister Vertical Double Tourbillon, outfitted with the manual-wound Caliber SM6, follows up on the success of the British watchmaker’s original Vertical Double Tourbillon from 2015, adding an all-black, gilded mainplate to enhance and contrast with the complexity of the vertically aligned twin tourbillons on the left of the dial. On the front of the timepiece, which is housed in a 46-mm- diameter white-gold case in Speake-Marin’s “Piccadilly” style, is an oven-fired enamel subdial, displaying the hours and minutes with heat-blued steel “Foundation” hands, another signature Speake-Marin element. Another indicator directly above displays the movement’s 72- hour power reserve by means of a cam-shaped disk that opens when fully wound to reveal the gears and mechanisms below.
The Tutima Patria Dual Time is available in two dial versions, one with Arabic hour numerals and the other with simple, applied hour indices. The classical gold hour and minute hands are hand-crafted and matte-finished along their chamfers; the extra-large subdial at 6 o’clock on the opaline silver-white dial displays both the running seconds and a second time zone on a 12-hour scale. The watch’s manual-winding movement, Caliber 617, was developed and manufactured in-house at Tutima’s manufacture in Glashütte, Germany. It features gold-plated parts and a traditional Glashütte three-quarter mainplate with a uniformly banded pattern that accentuates the three ruby jewels in their screwed gold settings. Each of its two steel crown wheels is finished with a sunburst pattern and has a special ratchet with steel springs polished on tinplate. The balance has fourteen weight screws and four regulating screws, oscillates at a frequency of 21,600 vph, and is paired with a Breguet hairspring culminating in a manually crafted upward curve.
Urban Jürgensen’s Reference 1741 in platinum is the most prestigious and complicated piece in the brand’s 1745 collection. Its crowning aesthetic touch is its hand-crafted, solid silver dial with a Grenage finish—a technique the brand says has not been used on a dial in more than 100 years. The time-consuming, difficult process involves engraving the dial with very shallow recesses for the numerals and other inscribed elements, filling the recesses with lacquer, polishing off the excess material with fine diamond paper, and finishing off the final layer of graining with metal-bristled brushes and a mixture of silver powder and salts, resulting in a noticeably frosted finish. The domed, Arabic hour numerals are made of white gold while the hands are in yellow gold and blued steel. The three-part 950 platinum case is 41 mm in diameter and attaches to the leather strap with Urban Jürgensen’s traditional teardrop lugs. The top case part secures the domed sapphire crystal and the back screws down and surrounds a flat sapphire window through which the wearer can view the movement.
Vacheron Constantin introduced its Harmony collection—a new series with distinctive cushion-shaped cases—for the brand’s 260th anniversary in 2015. This year, the collection expands with 10 all-new references, making their U.S. debut at WatchTime New York. The new Harmony watches — all of which are distinguished from their predecessors by anthracite colored numerals, opaline silvered dials, and a more contemporary font for the subdials—include a tourbillon monopusher chronograph, a monopusher chronograph with pulsimeter scale, a double-pusher chronograph, a dual- time watch, and a “complete” calendar with a new in-house movement. Like all timepieces from Vacheron Constantin, all of the new Harmony watches meet the criteria for the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva.