Ulysse Nardin presented the Marine Chronograph Annual Calendar Ref. 1533-one hundred fifty (metal) and 1532-one hundred fifty (18k purple gold) collection fashions with their new in-home UN-153 motion at this year’s Baselworld.
This nautical-themed magnificence goals for simplicity and is a welcome development from Ulysse Nardin’s Marine Chronometer Manufacture, established in 2012, that was adopted with the in-home made caliber UN-one hundred fifty automated chronograph motion within the Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronograph Manufacture.
The Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronograph Annual Calendar is housed in a strong 43mm chrome steel or 18k purple gold case with an elegantly fluted bezel which is an easy signature of the gathering going again to when the model truly did make marine chronometers for ship use. This provides the watch a coin-edge look and I’m a sucker for these. Chrome steel works nicely right here and permits the good-looking blue dial to actually pop. Each the ivory white and blue dial colours can be found in both the metal or 18k purple gold instances. Extra so, the metal variations can be found on an identical metal bracelet whereas all fashions are additionally out there on a rubber or alligator strap.
Whereas the white “egg shell” (they name it “white lacquered….” which it’s) dial choice is the apparent conservative’s selection, the actual winner right here within the Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronograph Annual Calendar dial is the navy blue with white roman numerals, for my part. I’m glad they selected roman numerals as I a lot choose the basic and Hellenic vibe they provide off, notably when paired with a extra formal piece. The purple accentuated month indicator and “1846” actually add a contact of variation and colour and stop the face from disappearing beneath a close to-monochromatic presentation.
The Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronograph Annual Calendar options an annual calendar as a part of the manufacture-made caliber UN-153 automated motion that may be a cross between a perpetual and a easy mannequin. Whereas easy calendars necessitate adjusting 5 occasions per yr, this complication marries the functionalities by solely needing to be adjusted as soon as per yr. The months might be shortly set with a singular backward/ahead adjustment for added ease. It solely acknowledges months with 30 or 31 days so February is the sufferer right here. Nonetheless, this isn’t an excessive amount of to ask of the wearer although you’ll miss out on that thrilling intercalary year second that solely perpetual calendar house owners get by seeing the 29th within the date window each 4 years in February. Each different month is abbreviated on the subdial whereas months in between are learn with elongated indices.
The dial is clear and legible regardless of the inclusion of a magnified date window at 6. I truly choose this locale if there have to be a date window although it may need labored higher with a continuation of the blue within the framing. The black on white ensures legibility on the very least. Holding in keeping with its maritime inspirations, the crown is screw-down and ensures a water resistance of one hundred meters. Typically I discover it odd when watches paired with leather-based straps supply this depth of water resistance, however I might moderately have all of it the identical.
The UN-153 advances the attributes set forth by the UN-118 the place much less is extra within the show of data. The calendar is constructed from solely a few dozen parts, and the indicator itself provides to an present subdial fairly than creating too many new parts on the dial. The corporate acknowledges that many annual calendars are comprised of just about thirty elements so Ulysse Nardin makes some extent of showcasing their motion by means of a sapphire crystal on the case again. It’s designed utterly in-home and is a testomony to the model’s effort to supply a excessive-high quality motion with excessive precision. Even the silicon stability-spring is manufactured in-home. This degree of dedication is a part of what makes unbiased manufacturers so particular and it’s refreshing to see this degree of element within the Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronograph Annual Calendar. The self-winding UN-153 beats away at a contemporary 4Hz (28,800 bph) and permits the proprietor a fifty two-hour energy reserve.
It’s a additional testomony to the efforts of the Swiss model to differentiate themselves from the densely aggressive area by making their in-home “excessive-quantity” calibers (versus sparsely made tourbillons and different unique actions) seem distinctive from others within the market. With that stated, it’s exhausting to not be amused by the “Ulysse Nardin Licensed” seal on the label which simply reminds us of the “Patek Philippe” seal – which the model awards to itself. There was traditionally good purpose for manufacturers to provide you with their very own excessive requirements of creating actions, they usually supply proof that they’re following their very own requirements – however there needs to be a extra elegant method of speaking as such.
General, in case you like a bit of boat-way of life in your in any other case conservative sport watches and respect the thought of adjusting your calendar date solely annually, then give these an excellent look.