It is difficult to make something fresh. It is particularly difficult to make something fresh once you’re breaking from almost forty decades of dependence on a few of the most iconic designs at the history of watchmaking. Such is the burden onto the shoulders of Audemars Piguet, that only unveiled a huge new contemporary collection named Code 11.59 made to do exactly that. With six first new versions divide into 13 references, such as three brand new moves, Code is, in a word, challenging. However, is it the opinion which everybody’s been waiting for, and is it sufficient to make a future in which AP is well known for more than simply Genta’s stainless steel masterpiece?
However, the stakes are arguably higher for its typical three-hand and chronograph versions (that can also be both 41mm Mens Automatic watches, exactly like the above versions ), which will probably be the cornerstones of this collection. With both of these watches, It is difficult to choose which is a bigger deal here: the new instance and on-trend dial aesthetic, or even the newly developed calibres — among which happens to be the newest in-house incorporated chronograph movement that AP buffs have been begging for.
Nowadays, it is fairly rare when a new set comes along that does not mention either the contest, or even a new historic versions. At best, the dial to the new three-hander is slick and contemporary, with sleek lacquer punctuated by golden baton indices, implemented 12-3-6-9 Arabic numerals — that seem vaguely like these used on the past season’s JLC Polaris we watched hands here — along with also a date aperture at 4:30. The chronograph is busier, but seems like it is the most loyal to Audemars Piguet DNA, using contemporary numerals during, gold encircles for its registers, along with a sporty tachometer instead of this 60-minute chapter ring onto the three-hand version. At worst, neither dial layout actually challenges the viewer they feel secure and fashionable, rather than the kind of disruptive material that solidified AP from the pantheon of contemporary luxury watchmaking.
As previously mentioned, the two watches have been fitted with brand-new motions: Calibre 4302 is set up from the three-hand version, which will be a 4Hz motion with 70 hours of power reserve. That motion is really in precisely the exact same household as the true star of this series : the brand new automatic Calibre 4401, that’s the completely integrated, in-house fabricated chronograph which AP fans have wished to be attracted into the Royal Oak household. This column wheel-actuated flyback chronograph movement conveys exactly the exact same chronometric amounts as the 3-hand model (4Hz, 70 hours of book, instant date leap ), but additionally has a skeletonized gold strand allowing the viewer a much more expansive look at the motion.
Movement along with dials aside, it looks like that the CODE actually has to be observed in the side or in an angle to fully enjoy the stunning structure of this openworked lugs along with the octagonal centre case body. Every one of these brushed lugs flow neatly to the beveled & polished lines of this bezel (they’re in fact welded into the bezel( after all), forming a lively, multi-faceted surface region that’s simultaneously robust and tasteful — both hallmarks of both AP’s most iconic historical layouts. It is here in such shapes in which the brand new Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 set feels like it is equipped to actually carve out its own identity — one which we are eager to wear the wrist to get some correct firsthand impressions.
We were not alone in shying in the notion that AP’s showings in SIHH for the past several years have not been exceptionally first. Even Audemars Piguet themselves have not been afraid to acknowledge that the brand has to be understood for more than simply the Royal Oak. However, what we did not understand, was that Le Brassus has been hard at work on a group designed to show to its fans and clients that it had been a one-hit wonder.
However, what Genta demonstrated multiple occasions was that one does not so readily make an icon on need. The Royal Oak and the Nautilus fought for footing prior to obtaining widespread acclaim. And in the event that you could build a icon on-demand, each brand could do it, but it has just never been simple. The past five years have seen lots of SIHH brands present completely new sets — Vacheron’s FiftySix, the Piaget Polo, and JLC’s Polaris collection all come instantly to mind, but all three of these were slightly modernized re-adoptions of historic references.
It is probably best that people emphasise complete opinion until we’ve got an opportunity to go hands with the new versions in a couple of days in Geneva. However, for the time being, the sole opinion I must provide is about the title of this group itself:”CODE 11:59,” that is an acronym which stands for”Challenge, Own, Dare, Evolve,” along with also the timestamp representing the last moment in front of a brand-new day (or a moment before you’re able to break for lunch — just depends upon who you ask, and the way you prefer to read time) — ironically the landmark that AP considers it’s laid down. The entire driven significance comes off somewhat hollow, echoing the exact same hubris and designed-by-committee vibe which appears to be driving lots of the ancient community opinions on the group. For the time being, however, combine the dialogue below and let us know what you consider AP’s toughest new release since nicely, a great deal more than a fantastic many people have been after the watch market.
I think more audemars piguet replica watches will release soon.