Hands On The IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Reference 5033 Watch
IWC made a huge impresison on SIHH with the Portugieser Annual Calendar at SIHH. And for the anniversary of the Portugieser collection the IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar single moon phase also received slight but significant updates that bring it to the next level both technically and aesthetically. The two most obvious changes are the moon phase and chapter ring. More in keeping with the Portugieser DNA the dial now features a railroad track that visually ties it to the family and closer to the original, while the moon gets center stage with delightful details.
Although moon phases aren’t a practical complication, they are a beautiful one of legend and history. The moon controls the tides through gravitational pull and is also believed by some to affect our moods. IWC gives the 5mm sized moon its due by placing it in a star-studded sky to create the illusion of hovering in space. Not only is the moon visually stunning but it’s also a technical marvel, deviating by a mere 1 day in 577.5 years—that’s more than half a century!
The Perpetual Calendar, which is an advanced and complex function, takes into account not only longer and shorter months but also leap years without adjustment. The tri-compax layout indicates the date, day and month with the year in four digits between 7 and 8 o’clock. The model comes in two variations in a 44mm white gold case with an ardoise dial or red gold case with a silver-plated white dial. The watch fits comfortably round the wrist with a sumptuous Santoni alligator strap.
Powered with a movement from the new IWC 52000 family, the Perpetual Calendar is equipped with a hacking seconds so the watch can easily be set accurately . Two barrels provide a remarkable 7 days of power reserve. IWC put a lot of effort into the details of the automatic movement with the bidirectional Pellaton winding system, which can be seen through the sapphire crystal case back. Perforated bridges allow a nice view of the mechanics, including the new ceramic components and blued screws. The rotor isn’t left out either, composed of engraved 18k rose gold.
Photo Credit: Haute Time. For more information, please visit the official IWC website.